How to pronounce “perfumer” in English

you can find all kinds of single molecule aromas or essential oils that are being usedin perfumery and flavoring, foods, and so on.So you can buy the individual components that we usually encounter as notes in a chord,

only about uh the half of 19th century that the synthetic molecules were beginning to be invented and and completely changed the game let's say to keep keep that again very simple that perfumersprofessional high-level perfumers think that they cannot create without the synthetic but because the synthetic will give some kind of structure some kind of a let's say like a skeletonto their Creations but at the same time if you go too far and if you create only with synthetics your perfumes definitely lack something and you can feel it so that's where the magic of Naturals

they eat pine they eat hemlock and so that's what they smell like and you can smell them uh was that was an amazingexperience I also followed perfumers and I studied with Somali spent a lot of time putting bottles of things to mynose so that I become more accustomed to sniffing things and naming them or making associations uh so I think I'm going to

harming us and that's why ancient these other humans let them uh affiliate withexpert I met experts perfumers Somali the animal tract these are not people

know Rose was coming from Bulgaria or turkey so the farmers are the first step the second step is completely fundamental is the people we call the producers means I'm a farmer growingPatchouli leaves in Indonesia but the perfumer is expecting not Patchouli leaves but a patchouli essential oil so the the the the the the the the transformation of the leaves or the flowersinto an essential oil or an extract is fundamental because this is where the creation of the perfumer palette happens okay so we have throughout the world in many many countries the most remote and

gives it its personality to the perfume so that's what's in your bottle now let's go a little bit further with that where do those 15 come from so here immediately comes something that isgenerally very well known is that a composition by a perfumer is a combination a mixture of synthetic ingredients and natural ingredients that's a lot of the debate and a lot of discussions around themerits of of each category with very often people being a little bit shocked when they learn that

Earth it smells Woods it smell yumus uh it's it's it's just perfumers are crazy all of them all ofthem it's it's absolutely fascinating you know this perfumer loves this all of that it prefers this and that but Patchouli they will all take with them on their Desert Island uhyeah that the nose would like uh sneak into his his uh his little stash bag very fascinating um what is um what is a scent that um that that you really like which one have you do you prefer

And so I got this kind of spectrum of aromas from the kitchen as I walked down the stairs.That's like a building-sized gas chromatograph-- this instrument that perfumers and other people in chemistryuse to take a formula and then basically shatter it into its pieces and smell each piece, if you attach a little smelling port to it.

way because at one end of it it's so traditional and it's so old school but the bottle of perfume is so modern and so um so Chic right so it's almost at a complete dissonance with each otherso this is usually when someone says that then steps in the perfumer the the Nay as we say inFrench and he's supposed to be the magician so he's got is used you know like uh a few hundreds of ingredients we uh I tend to think that uh his palette is based on basically 150

botanists there were a lot of experts they were trying absolutely everything and at some point uh the the palette of Naturals at the end of the 19th century was richer than it is today becausethey were they were really trying and trying and trying and then gradually the perfumer said well listen we're gonna drop that because it's it's not different enough from something else becausereally the the ultimate game is that the Merit of an ingredient has to prove its strength and power in the composition how it combines with the others so it can be very nice smell by itself but

so sometimes there these things can be mixed like some very very famous brands have their own perfumers so these last two steps will be just one you know like to give an example Chaneluh doesn't order its perfumes from an fnf house it it has its own perfumers and they create an itself but let's say that the the structure of the industry is Farmers producers composers and brandsand we very fascinating and we literally have only the last quarter that we know of because we're shopping by Brands right it's exactly the only visible entity and yet and yet I wish it

beside the classic let's call it like that the Classic Brands you know the the Lancome the wellin the name name the one you want the the recent successes in perfumery is what we call the niche perfumery okay smaller companies putting let's say putting more money in the bottle you knowbecause that would that would be another long and complicated discussion but when you honestly look

I I dare say that a majority of perfumes used Patchouli one way or the other so it was some kind of Silent Revolution because Patchouli brings you warmth and cold at the same time it smellsEarth it smells Woods it smell yumus uh it's it's it's just perfumers are crazy all of them all ofthem it's it's absolutely fascinating you know this perfumer loves this all of that it prefers this and that but Patchouli they will all take with them on their Desert Island uh

Patchouli leaves in Indonesia but the perfumer is expecting not Patchouli leaves but a patchouli essential oil so the the the the the the the the transformation of the leaves or the flowersinto an essential oil or an extract is fundamental because this is where the creation of the perfumer palette happens okay so we have throughout the world in many many countries the most remote andand some very familiar because there are a lot of producers of essential oils in the United States for instance so throughout the world we have the these people and these people offer to the market

all a reminder is that it's roughly 85 percent of alcohol mixed with 15 of what we call uh a juicefor a lack of a better word which is what will be has been created by the perfumers and whichgives it its personality to the perfume so that's what's in your bottle now let's go a little bit further with that where do those 15 come from so here immediately comes something that is

three is the type of company I was working for which we called fnf flavors and fragrance houses uh they can be very big the the four majors are two Swiss company one US company and onefrom Germany uh and some medium size and a lot of of smaller ones these are the people who hire perfumers to really create the products and who do they create for they create for the brandsso sometimes there these things can be mixed like some very very famous brands have their own perfumers so these last two steps will be just one you know like to give an example Chanel

from Germany uh and some medium size and a lot of of smaller ones these are the people who hire perfumers to really create the products and who do they create for they create for the brandsso sometimes there these things can be mixed like some very very famous brands have their own perfumers so these last two steps will be just one you know like to give an example Chaneluh doesn't order its perfumes from an fnf house it it has its own perfumers and they create an itself but let's say that the the structure of the industry is Farmers producers composers and brands

The Growers were and who the producers were who the actual scent Innovation Geniuses and then of course the brand that I'm shopping with right so do you think that would ever happen Dominiquewe've we've come a long way many things have changed the truth is that for centuries uh perfumery was all about secrecy secrecy of the of the formula and secrecy of the sources anduh and the French would have a high and strong responsibility in that because for a long time and probably a lot of you have heard the name of Goss the city of on the French Riviera that for a

uh and the French would have a high and strong responsibility in that because for a long time and probably a lot of you have heard the name of Goss the city of on the French Riviera that for along long time at least from the 17th 18th century uh was really the center of of the world perfumery and these people were so successful and growing so fast that the last thing they wanted is people toknow where their famous ingredients were coming from so they were really hiding everything and hiding meant a lot of things it meant that well you know the users didn't know but also let's face

it you know it allowed for a lot of bad behaviors and abuse of really exploiting communities atsource and there's an explanation to that it's because the the sort of golden age of perfumery which runs basically from the end of the 19th century to the 30s that really corresponds did tothe extension of the European Empires the British Empire the French Empire which opened completely new territories for these perfumery people to grow more fields in more uh more possibilities so this

source and there's an explanation to that it's because the the sort of golden age of perfumery which runs basically from the end of the 19th century to the 30s that really corresponds did tothe extension of the European Empires the British Empire the French Empire which opened completely new territories for these perfumery people to grow more fields in more uh more possibilities so thisthis very strong Heritage was all about obscurity and what happened now to come back to your point when I say we come a long way it's because there's a such a difference now of the the consumer

why because Patchouli is known forever it was used in Chinese medicine it was used by the Indians but always in the form of leaves they would perfume their Shoals and Export it toEngland and all of that when all of a sudden the Patchouli smell became popular in London and and some perfumers said well why don't we try to distill the Patchouli leaves itwas a complete Revolution because Patchouli oil is something truly amazing it's almost impossible to copy in a synthetic way it's so complex so rich and Patchouli has been used

But you can now get them on their own and begin to learn for yourself what those individual notes are like.I mean, what's available at our fingertips now would be something to make the perfumers of the 1700s quite envious that we've alreadyexploded the pistachio, and we know all the molecules, and you can buy them and maybe even mix them together to create your own pistachio.

And we work really hard to make them new.So I wrote a book in 2003, came out in 2004, with a natural perfumer named Mandy Aftel.

there is or they may be so much synthetic in a perfume that cost a lot of money right so um so the the truth is that for a long long time perfumes were only natural and and it'sonly about uh the half of 19th century that the synthetic molecules were beginning to be invented and and completely changed the game let's say to keep keep that again very simple that perfumersprofessional high-level perfumers think that they cannot create without the synthetic but because the synthetic will give some kind of structure some kind of a let's say like a skeleton

was she was doing that and she was bringing this uh with with her camel she was bringing presence of Frankincense to King Solomon who himself was building his Palace full of cedar planks so themeeting of the amazing smell of the Cedarwood from Lebanon with the smell of frankincense from the home of Africa that's what I consider the absolute birth of perfumery in in the story of manand and no sooner than Queen of Sheba right like as far back is fascinating I uh you know I'm gonna look at the clock and I know we have just five minutes to go so maybe if there are any audience

for a lack of a better word which is what will be has been created by the perfumers and whichgives it its personality to the perfume so that's what's in your bottle now let's go a little bit further with that where do those 15 come from so here immediately comes something that isgenerally very well known is that a composition by a perfumer is a combination a mixture of synthetic ingredients and natural ingredients that's a lot of the debate and a lot of discussions around the

merits of of each category with very often people being a little bit shocked when they learn thatthere is or they may be so much synthetic in a perfume that cost a lot of money right so um so the the truth is that for a long long time perfumes were only natural and and it'sonly about uh the half of 19th century that the synthetic molecules were beginning to be invented and and completely changed the game let's say to keep keep that again very simple that perfumers

let's say about 400 years now and it's still as popular if not even more popular and uhI I dare say that a majority of perfumes used Patchouli one way or the other so it was some kind of Silent Revolution because Patchouli brings you warmth and cold at the same time it smellsEarth it smells Woods it smell yumus uh it's it's it's just perfumers are crazy all of them all of

professional high-level perfumers think that they cannot create without the synthetic but because the synthetic will give some kind of structure some kind of a let's say like a skeletonto their Creations but at the same time if you go too far and if you create only with synthetics your perfumes definitely lack something and you can feel it so that's where the magic of Naturalsand I'm saying that because I dedicated my life to to these Naturals that that's where the the magic comes in so to to come back to your question uh we we can sort of make a very simple drawing of

natural ingredients that you were talking about were from India in my head I could I could totally picture it right so it was it's very fascinating and it's it's actually ironical as well in away because at one end of it it's so traditional and it's so old school but the bottle of perfume is so modern and so um so Chic right so it's almost at a complete dissonance with each otherso this is usually when someone says that then steps in the perfumer the the Nay as we say in