different to the notoriety that most professional athletes get because the only people that really recognize Surfers are Surfers and generally if a surfer comes up to you they're very um yeah they're very friendly and they want to chat about because they have thatcommonality of experience as Surfers you know whether you're the greatest guy in the world or you're a guy that's just starting out you have a
intensity of of competition was uh was uh was great to see and I think um as a surfer I've always felt that that that there's this commonality of experience that it's one ocean out there and Ithink man what you guys have been doing with with your company is connecting the
Scientists don't think it's possible. Surfers don't think it's possible.Today, we're pushing into 100-foot waves.
various times at Cortes Bank on swells. He became just obsessed, just fixated trying to figure out when the Cortes Bank broke the best. What were the best conditions? As the surfers in this crowd would agree, these are not ideal conditions for Cortes bank. This is actually not a huge swell by Cortes standards. And it's pretty windy and choppy out there,but you can see the right-handed wave just peeling off in the distance. And that's what these guys are after out there. You see two waves following each other in succession.
a street urchin but this guy had an amazing Vision a vision of of one day we might be able to be respected um as Surfers and that one day we might be able to make a living as professionals and this enthusiasm and vision that hehad was very infectious and certainly rabbit and I became very very close friends we met each other this
of whom is here, up here in the front with me -- went out. And the photographer -- actually, two guys are here, Photographer Rob Brown and Ken "Skin-Dog" Collins who is a well-known Mavericks surfer , went out and road these waves that nobody even knew existed back in 2001. And I'm going to stop real quick and just tell you that the other guys I have with me are Greg Long, big wave surfer from San Clemente, Jason Murray, "Skinny", Jeff Clark of Mavericks' renown and Rob Brown. And they'll be available to answer some questions afterwards,
I think rock and roll photographers are the ones that really-- not so much shooting the concerts, but the ones behind the scenes. The surfers now have health insurance.
So when I'm home-- and on the road-- I work, do different things throughout the day, just keeping my body in shape and watching other surfers who I appreciate their way of approaching surfing. And also I got a trampoline to elevate my surfing and get repetition on the trampoline, which you can't get in the ocean, necessarily.
This is a shot. and surfers . So I bought this.
But they had all sorts of great bands. Butthole Surfers -- this is actually at the I-Beam, but it was the I-Beam West. They have like-- did a few shows south of Market at some warehouse that is now some dot com or something like that.
been successful. And then, how do you know who this guy is? Any surfers ? Well, if there were, they'd recognize that the board he's carrying is a Greg Noll board, which is a classic.
So now we can run this Markov chain and see what happens. Imagine you're a surfer on this web. You start on a random page, say, Amy, and you keep running the machine and keep track of the percentage of time
So, Masatoshi Ohno is a three-time JPSA, Japan Pro Surfing Association, now known as SB4, grand champion surfer , whose most significant contribution to the surf industry has been his participation in the mission to get surfing added to the Olympic Games. He holds the record for most consecutive wins in a single year, with 7 golds, in 2013, which has never been done before in Japan.
And you can see the style. When you see the surfer riding on the wave, you kind of feel how-- I don't know how to explain it. But it's just a feeling you get from watching.
Ma has been surfing his whole life. He's still a surfer . And I still hold a Saber.
So that's obviously not ideal. So every time a surfer 's surfboard gets chopped by a shark, it's in the news.
And that is the essence of like Surfrider Foundation and organizations like that. I'm a surfer . I don't surf on certain days, because I don't want the pollution in the water, to get sick from that. And just engaging and taking care of the place where you are, I think, is absolutely critical.
I think rock and roll photographers are the ones that really-- not so much shooting the concerts, but the ones behind the scenes. He was a free surfer , but he's also very competitive with Steph Gilmore, who's a six-time world champion, potentially winning seven this year.
I think rock and roll photographers are the ones that really-- not so much shooting the concerts, but the ones behind the scenes. Even being a professional surfer gets busy.
I think rock and roll photographers are the ones that really-- not so much shooting the concerts, but the ones behind the scenes. It's a surfer thing.
And they had all found ways to produce flow and use it to amplify performance. And I was a surfer .
And actually I was just in Malibu at a pop-up I did. And this very famous surfer , who I don't know the name, said to me-- he's Japanese. And he said, I give your "Japanese Farm Food" book to so many friends when I want to say this is Japanese food
You know, you learn about the galaxy. But the Silver Surfer takes you there. So because I was reading comic books, I was able to excel in school.
So being a surfer in Manhattan beach and all of a sudden realizing that, yes, underwater there's a lot of great white sharks.
A world famous surfer on the left, and Yvon Chouinard, a great adventurer, outdoorsman, founded Patagonia.
Does anyone know a surfer in here?
He was a surfer .
been successful. And then, how do you know who this guy is? Now when a surfer dies, in real life, they do a paddle out.
And he's a surfer . So I know we've got some surfers here too. So if you have surfing related questions or tips you want. Here's the guy to ask.
impact that it's had on on on Modern um surfing culture and the modern surfing industry back then there was no such thing as a professional Surfer you couldn't get paid to go surfing um and eventually you know the money and the industry has built up until surfing today is a multi-billion dollar industry there are a number of Surfing companies that are are publicly traded on both in
And we find that surfers do really well with that.
But as far as the slideshow and the images that we're choosing to share, I'd rather show images that show the beauty and the individualism of how the surfers surf rather than maybe what they're wearing. So this is Windansea Beach with a 700-millimeter lens.
I think rock and roll photographers are the ones that really-- not so much shooting the concerts, but the ones behind the scenes. a total of eight surfers -- together individually and take them to a place they'd never been before, mic them, and then take a step back
I think rock and roll photographers are the ones that really-- not so much shooting the concerts, but the ones behind the scenes. In talking about surfers and how competitive they are, like, I know Kelly Slater's super, super competitive, super focused .
been successful. And then, how do you know who this guy is? So are there any surfers in the audience?
climbers and surfers , who spent as much free time as they could in the wilderness.
me by this young bloke on the right here called Mark Richards who went on to become a four-time world champion one of the greatest Surfers in the world this was the type of equipment that we used in the 70s they were called pin tails that was my quiver selection of surfboards that I took with me to ride the big waves in Hawaii um and this is a
surfer comes up to you they're very um yeah they're very friendly and they want to chat about because they have thatcommonality of experience as Surfers you know whether you're the greatest guy in the world or you're a guy that's just starting out you have a commonality of experience so there's a lot of friendliness I'm thinking you know this guy wants to just chat and I
That makes it our style. Here is the world champion surfer , Kanoa Igarashi, one of the most impressive and famous surfer
But Torrey Pines is very unique in that sense that you get the very, very first rays of light. So while I am a surfer and a photographer and I've traveled quite a bit, I'm also kind of a poor man's meteorologist. So these are all things that we try and look at and think about when we're making images.
So this is another one. Rob Machado is a local San Diego surfer . We grew up together.
I think rock and roll photographers are the ones that really-- not so much shooting the concerts, but the ones behind the scenes. So this was my first submission to "SURFER " magazine.
I was actually looking for a handsome surfer instructor at the time We got introduced He is actually 9 years younger
We're going to retake our "Surfer Rosa" vows at the shows together as a band.
And it's what I love to do. And then you had "Soul Surfer ," which is a book that you had written pretty much a year right after. It was 2004. And then it was turned to a movie.
But you ultimately only become a great surfer when you know how to let go into the wave.
So Bob started his career as a surfer , and actually shaping surfboards.
Rabbit was the reigning world champion surfer at the time, from Australia.
I'm a senior staff photographer for "Surfer Magazine." I've shot for Surfer for about six years on staff and I've been lucky enough to travel
What was really cool was that "Surfer Magazine" did a big pretty awesome tour with this film.