It was super cold. Paddling days were short because of that cold water, so the next place we went was Vietnam, where we had long days on the water and met lots of people,and it was super hot.
things under microscopes and so along with uh Irwin and his team we have freshwater boers uh that are out paddling just about every single day rowing across oceans and Marine water people who are sailing across oceansthat are collecting these samples for us and they go from uh they basically get collected and
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. paddling in the waves at Jaws which is of course largely considered to be unpaddlable.
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. paddling speed up to catch that wave and make the drop before you get thrown to the beach. You need to find that perfect mix for you that is the right
involving the drive train and cleaning there of or chain removal and all of that especially because I tend to neglect that stuff to begin with so. If I have to touch my drive train, it's like I was paddling around in the Gulf. It's like I'm and covered in black. It's not good so I hate that. I really really enjoy, I'm not very good at it, ah but I really like building wheels.
I got back on my board. And I remember my first time paddling out with one arm. It just felt so awkward and weird.
So that helps stuff grow. And people are quite happy paddling around. The problem is that the situation we have now is that there's not enough water in that end of the pool.
of getting back out there and just getting a few more waves I came last in the final I came sixth in the final but for me just the matter of paddling back out there was a was a great confidence builder for me and I think really really helped me with challenges that were to come later in my life this was uh I had a clothing
Is there some type of pull that they have in particular? There has been no one passed that dog paddling that you were talking about.
top you're going to get pile driven into the reef so it's Pine is all about the drop and that drop is terrifically um challenging it's very scary when you're paddling for that wave and there's a moment you look down over the drop and it's just black coral beneath you and it's really it's really the color of death down there but you have to take that drop with commitment you have to
and um this uh uh this day was one of the biggest days ever written in the in in the history of the sport just took a took a bad wipe out and obviously this concept of always paddling back out is is very very self explanatory and you know for me I have always thought that um that you know when one thinks of what is true courage you know what is courage
helped me with challenges that were to come later in my life this was uh I had a clothing company called Solitude just to illustrate this whole concept of of paddling back how my wife and I started this company in the '90s we supplied all the best stores in America sacks Barney Bloomingdales Nordstroms Macy's all these great St and it was a startup the two of us we
American astronauts and Soviet cosmonauts had seen earth from space many times before. But in those cases, they had been dog paddling in orbit with the horizon of the planet a mere arc beneath them, not entirely unlike the way it appears from the window of a passenger jet.
It's all in the banks. And what happens is money sort of sloshes in and slashes out of the paddling part of the pool. You don't want too much money in that end of the pool, because not everybody can swim that well.
them side by side and reconstruct these trips on a daily basis, so it's fascinating. Because Douglass Houghton is gathering samples largely rocks and the other guys are doing the paddling , they'd actually hire guys to do nothing but paddle . He'd hire, they called 'em voyagers or couriers, and they would do nothing but paddle for you all day long. You're
So that by the time the story got told it was always a 10,000 pound or 20,000 pound boulder. And in fact in Schoolcraft's book, he wrote several books, one of his books he has an illustration showing the boulder and he shows a canoe of Indians paddling across the river over towards this thing the size of a garage -- and in reality the Ontonagon Boulder is about the size of a microwave oven. It's about this
And we're riding at the last bit of the energy. And when you try to catch a wave, it's called paddling . And there's no waves, if you try to even-- when there's no wave and you paddle , it's a waste of energy.
And it actually produces glucocorticoids that are neurotoxic, that actually begin to kill some of the cells in the hippocampus. So when your rate of neurogenesis is low, it's like paddling upstream.
And it actually produces glucocorticoids that are neurotoxic, that actually begin to kill some of the cells in the hippocampus. When your rate of neurogenesis is high, it's like paddling downstream.
In some other cases, because we only had four people, if three of us were down at the same time we took some other We got back into the canoes pretty soon, and we were paddling back.
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. Skindog: Nothing wrong with it and you can get barreled. But grabbing your surfboard and paddling out to a spot and catching it with your bare hands is way more satisfying
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. Jeff: And that's why I got this board I built for myself because I'm doing a lot of stand up paddling riding big waves on stand up paddle boards. And I'm thinking, you know,
conceptually paddle back out because it's it was difficult to do that uh great things can happen when you just kind of paddle out towards the horizon so I wanted to talk to you a little bit about paddling out towards the horizon and talk to you about um this other little book that I wrote called surface code and I wanted to read you um a
very difficult times in my life and and have helped me maintain a certain perspective of the world and and my place in it and I've learned it all just from getting on a board and and paddling out there to the Horizon so the first is never turn your back on the ocean uh this is actually um something that the ancient the old Beach Boys in Hawaii um
the most exciting place is referred to as the Impact Zone that's a place where the waves Break um that's where uh surf is like to be because that's where the excitement is but also when you're paddling out it's a really dangerous place to go because you're going to get your boards are going to get broken you're going to get smashed into the reef and when I speak
There's no opportune moment. But I'm just saying, there's things you can control, you can prepare, paddling , riding the waves. And so, yeah, I actually learned a lot just through these kind of conversations.
There are physics papers written about how you can't paddle into a wave above 25 feet. As you can see from this slide, today, surfers are routinely paddling into waves that are almost 100 feet tall in 20 years. And this was happening all over action sports.
200 years later, the glaciers have retreated 65 miles, which is the largest glacial retreat in history. So to explore those parks, I had to learn new skills-- in the case of Glacier Bay, paddling . The glaciers that you see in the background look smaller, but our kayak, here, give you a better indication of its scale.
have the rate of murder of female victims, partners and male partners. You can see that actually the decline is steeper for male victims even than female victims. The women's movement has been very, very good for husbands. The children's rights movement has seen a steady decline in the number of American states that allow paddling or corporal punishment in schools. Every opinion poll has shown a decrease in the percentage of people in western societies that approve of spanking. The rate of child abuse both physical and sexual has
tend to break at a very set spot. At Cortes, they can break 100 yards farther down the reef and absolutely just leave these guys scratching for the horizon and bailing their boards as you can see here. I think we have Greg either here or here getting ready to get obliterated and Peter Mel paddling for the shoulder. And I want to thank Jason who is here for these shots. This is Rusty Long on a bomb and I thought this was a gorgeous one. This is some footage that was provided to me courtesy of Bill Sharp who runs the
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. favorite board out there. And this is Jeff Clark who was running rescue. Jeff and Mike decided to run rescue for the boys who were paddling . And basically Greg, you know, sort
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. him. We have one more photo. And this is Greg sitting by himself in the middle of the ocean 100 miles from shore. And he said to me, "when you're paddling all alone out there, when
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. than anything I've ever experienced in my life. . I kind of gave up to tow surfing and just went back to paddling with my hands. You know, you catch a 50 foot wave on a jet
I would point out, you know, these guys are surfing over the hull of the Jalisco. So that ship provides a hazard kind of unlike most other surf spots I've ever seen anywhere. I don't care what it looks like. I want to catch these waves. No matter how good a shape you're in or how fast you are, you're running into. Even on that board I'm paddling for